Ford F-150 2007 Fuse Replacement
Having an electrical issue? It could be a blown fuse — an easy fix you can do yourself.
Follow the steps below to find and replace the fuse:
Step 1: Find the Fuse Box
In your Ford F-150 2007, the interior fuse box is typically located under the dashboard on the driver's side. Some vehicles also have an additional fuse box in the engine compartment. Check your owner's manual or the fuse box cover for the exact location.
Step 2: Identify the Corresponding Fuse
Below is the complete fuse list for your vehicle. Find the circuit that isn't working and note the fuse number and amperage.
| Fuse # | Function | Amperage |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Run/Accessory - Wipers, Instrument cluster | 10 |
| 2 | Stop/Turn lamps, Speed control deactivate switch | 20 |
| 3 | Power mirrors, Memory logic power, Memory seats and pedals | 5 |
| 4 | DVD battery power | 10 |
| 5 | Keep alive memory for Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and climate control module | 7.5 |
| 6 | Parklamps, BSM, Instrument panel illumination | 15 |
| 7 | Radio (start signal) | 5 |
| 8 | Heated mirrors, Switch indicator | 10 |
| 9 | Not used | |
| 10 | Trailer tow back-up lamps relay (PCB1), Trailer tow parklamp relay (R201) | 20 |
| 11 | A/C clutch, 4x4 solenoid | 10 |
| 12 | Not used | |
| 13 | Climate control module power | 10 |
| 14 | Back-up lamp and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) relay coil, A/C pressure swatch, Brake-shift interlock solenoid | 10 |
| 15 | Overdrive cancel, Cluster, Brake-Shift Interlock (BSI) | 5 |
| 16 | ABS module (Run/Start power) | 10 |
| 17 | Fog lamp relay (R202) | 15 |
| 18 | Run/Start feed - Flasher relay, Electrochromatic mirror, Heated seats, BSM, Compass, RSS (Reverse Sensing System) | 10 |
| 19 | Restraints (Air bag module) | 10 |
| 20 | PCM 4x4 power | 15 |
| 21 | Cluster keep alive power | 15 |
| 22 | Delayed accessory power for audio, power door lock switch and moonroof switch illumination | 10 |
| 23 | RH low beam headlamp | 10 |
| 24 | Battery saver power for demand lamps | 15 |
| 25 | LH low' beam headlamp | 10 |
| 26 | Horn relay (PCB3), Horn power | 20 |
| 27 | Passenger Air bag Deactivation (PAD) warning lamp, Cluster air bag warning lamp, Cluster RUN /START power | 5 |
| 28 | SecuriLock transceiver (PATS) | 5 |
| 29 | PCM 4x4 power | 15 |
| 30 | Not used | |
| 31 | Radio power | 20 |
| 32 | Vapor Management Valve (VMV), A/C clutch relay, Canister vent, Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensors #11 and #21, CMCV, Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, VCT | 15 |
| 33 | Shift solenoid, CMS #12 and #22 | 15 |
| 34 | Fuel injectors and PCM power | 20 |
| 35 | Instrument cluster high beam indicator, High beam headlamps | 20 |
| 36 | Trailer tow right turn/stop lamps | 10 |
| 37 | Rear power point | 20 |
| 38 | Subwoofer power | 25 |
| 39 | Instrument panel power point | 20 |
| 40 | Low beam headlamps, DRL | 20 |
| 41 | Cigar lighter, Diagnostic connector power | 20 |
| 42 | Trailer tow left turn/stop lamps | 10 |
| 101 | Starter solenoid | 30 |
| 102 | Ignition switch feed | 20 |
| 103 | ABS valves | 20 |
| 104 | Not used | |
| 105 | Electric trailer brakes | 30 |
| 106 | Trailer tow battery charge | 30 |
| 107 | Power door locks (BSM) | 30 |
| 108 | Passenger power seat | 30 |
| 109 | Driver power seat, Adjustable pedals | 30 |
| 110 | Not used | |
| 111 | 4x4 relays | 30 |
| 112 | ABS pump power | 40 |
| 113 | Wipers and washer pump | 30 |
| 114 | Heated backlite, Heated mirror power | 40 |
| 115 | Not used | |
| 116 | Blower motor | 30 |
| 117 | Not used | |
| 118 | Heated seats | 30 |
| 401 | Power windows, Moonroof, Power sliding backlite | 30 |
| R01 | Starter solenoid | |
| R02 | Accessoiy delay | |
| R03 | Hi-beam headlamps | |
| R04 | Heated backlite | |
| R05 | Trailer tow battery charge | |
| R06 | Blower motor | |
| R201 | Trailer tow park lamps | |
| R202 | Fog lamps | |
| R203 | PCM |
Step 3: Check the Fuse
Use the plastic fuse puller, typically found in the fuse box, to remove the fuse. Hold it up to a light source. If the metal filament inside is broken or charred, the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced.
Step 4: How to Get a Replacement
You can buy a replacement fuse at any auto parts store. Make sure you match the **amperage (A)** and **physical size** of the fuse exactly. For example, if you need a 20A fuse, get a 20A fuse.
Step 5: Replace the Fuse
Gently press the new fuse into the empty slot. You should feel a slight click when it's securely in place. Test the affected circuit to confirm it's working again.
What Now?
Fuse Was Blown — What to Buy
Ask at any auto parts store (AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto) for a blade fuse with the same amperage printed on the old one (e.g., 10A, 15A, 20A). Also match the physical size — mini (most modern cars), standard, or maxi. Replacement fuses cost under $5 and most stores sell assorted packs.
Fuse Looks Fine — Other Causes
If the fuse is intact, the problem isn't a blown fuse. Common alternatives include a bad relay (a click-sized electrical switch), a faulty wiring connection, or a failed component (motor, switch, module). At this point, a mechanic's diagnostic is the most reliable next step.
Frequently Asked Questions
What happens if I put in the wrong amperage fuse?
Higher amperage fuses won't protect the circuit and can cause wiring damage or fire. Lower amperage fuses will blow again immediately. Always match the exact amperage.
Why does my fuse keep blowing?
A repeatedly blown fuse indicates an underlying short circuit or overload. Replacing it again won't fix the root cause — consult a mechanic.
Do I need any tools?
Most cars come with a plastic fuse puller in the fuse box lid. If not, fine-tip needle-nose pliers work. A small flashlight helps.
How do I know what size fuse to buy?
Match the amperage printed on the old fuse (e.g., 10A, 15A, 20A) and the physical blade size (mini, standard, maxi). Auto parts stores carry assorted packs.